The 264th Helsinki Herring Market was opened yesterday, the first Sunday of October, and I did my share of traditional shopping today: Baltic herring in sherry and spicy tomato marinade, a jar of buckthorn jelly and two litres of lingonberries. Usually I leave my shopping for the last day, hoping for bargains, but this year I'll be away on Saturday.

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The Helsinki Herring Market is one of the oldest unbroken traditions in Finland, and the oldest in Helsinki. It was started by King Frederick I's order in 1743 to enliven the wretched town suffering from poverty and epidemics. As late as the early 20th century it was a necessity for the people of Helsinki, and they bought their barrels of salted Baltic herring for the winter here. Now it is only a pleasant tradition, and salted herring is sold only in small quantities. These days the herring is mostly marinated, both in traditional and imaginative new marinades. And then there are other traditional products: black bread from the archipelago, buckthorn juice and jelly, apples, knitwear...